He reluctantly allowed me to photograph his trick. I met him on the beach, and he spends a lot of time surfing. And chatting.
He was friendly, and a bit of an eccentric fellow who’s been around these parts a long time. He observed me photographing my friend and others, and chatted me up while I tried to keep my eyes on the water. I didn’t have much success with my pictures, but he was a rather unconventional dude and when he performed this trick, I had to snap it. He said I could post it on my blog (“the Internet”) but didn’t want his name used.
It was an changeable day; sunshine to the north and foreboding clouds to the south; great waves, a glistening sea, and an upbeat mood among the Wednesday surfers, mostly men and boys, hurriedly going into the water, probably expecting the storm that never did come.
I thought about how lovely it was to be on the beach on a mid-November day, barefoot, in shorts, and standing knee-deep in the water attempting to get some decent surfing pictures. After ten years here, I’m still so glad that I don’t have to face long, dark winter months ahead. We have sunshine and cooler weather coming, which equals perfect to me.
And surfing in November without a wetsuit. I love it.
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Jeannie Greenwald is a blogger, neighborhoods / 'go local' evangelist, hobbyist photographer, and degreed psychologist.