Cute Park Needs Nicer Name

…at Ashby Park!

So there’s this little pocket park in Atlantic Beach at Dewees Avenue and Coquina Place, a sort of triangular spit of land owned by the city and had been patrolled many years ago by a sometimes-ornery (as legend has it) dog called Marvin. Eventually the area became known as ‘Marvin’s Garden’ and later it received a nice City of Atlantic Beach park sign and the name became official. However,  many area neighbors object to the name and would prefer that its name honor earlier residents who contributed much to the area, Garnett and Eleanor Ashby. Garnett designed Kona Skate Park and Eleanor was with Leadership Jax for 20 years; they lived on Dewees for fifty years! Certainly that trumps the qualifications for recognition than that of the disliked dog?

‘But we invested in the nice sign!’ and indeed you did, COAB. How about a nice compromise? You could call it Marvin’s Garden at Ashby Park – just add Ashby Park to the sign, and install a nice, comfortable memorial bench honoring the Ashbys and their service to this community, instead of recognizing the memorable but menacing, mean old Marvin.

Romancing Johansen

It’s a 12-acre passive park that straddles land between two roads – Park Terrace East and Park Terrace West, bordered by Seminole Road to the east. You can walk along one of the Park Terrace streets until you encounter this lovely green space which is where Johansen park begins. Its tall native Sabals and Live Oaks, with thoughtfully planted Bald cypress trees at various locations along its 12 acres. You know it’s a park because there’s nice garbage bin, and dog-business bags there for the taking and can we just say that in all our park walking we’ve never once seen (or stepped in) some other animal’s poo. That’s how nicely we treat our parks here in Atlantic Beach. There is a picnic table there for rest or refreshment. But coming into the park from either of the Park Terrace locations, you’ll find it in its natural state, with no benches, just a lovely, rather woodsy area to tromp around in and enjoy the sounds of nature at whatever time you’re there. There are charming bridges placed at intervals, allowing us to cross over the sometimes-stream, which definitely depends on the rainfall. But it’s helpful, and picturesque, and really makes it seem like you’re out in the woods when actually you’re just playing in the neighborhood as the street lights come on.

As you continue your hike with your dog (or just yourself) east through the park, it’s easy to imagine how it might’ve been there in the Selva area before the various developers came through and created what is a mostly-stunning neighborhood by the sea. Then you’ll come to Country Club Lane and cross over to the other, more populated side of the park. There you’ll find a drinking fountain (as if anyone would dare, these days…you know, it’s like the hose – IYKYK) for humans and dogs, and a host of lovely memorial benches throughout the park. We think this is such a nice tribute to those who loved nature, and a gift to those of us who enjoy a moment or several to just enjoy this life from the vantage point of a park bench under an ancient tree canopy. It all doesn’t have to be about your heart rate.

But most of all it’s the romance of leaving the asphalt of a city street and stepping onto the land that’s owned by all – or by no one, just the people of the planet of Earth, or maybe just the citizens of Atlantic Beach, we don’t know, but whatever it is, if you think we’re walking through your backyard just remember that you were the one who wanted to have the exquisite Johansen Park behind your house, but other hikers love it too and yeah, that part of the park is public property.

Life Under the Trees

It’s a lot of work, living under the trees. They spew flotsam and jetsam on the daily: Sabal palm seeds, tiny acorns from various old oaks, the spiky ball of the Sweetgum, and the dreaded fruits from the majestic Queen palms that flank the garage. (It’s not native, I know. Don’t come for me. There are other out-of-zone plantings in the landscape here, but I know better, now.)

If you’re not out there blowing off your deck seven days a week your place will look unkempt with environmental litter  as though the residents have died inside, so be prepared for a neighborly wellness check.

In other words, you can’t take your foot off the gas when it comes to outdoor maintenance if you want to live in Atlantic Beach. You must be committed to living under the trees. Not only will there be sweeping or blowing, these beauties often lose limbs in windy conditions. It’s a good idea to establish a relationship with a reputable tree-trimming service, too, because you’ll need that. Forget about hiring a friend’s friend from college. They might be great in the early days, but tree care is hard work and you don’t need someone who dips out and is suddenly unreachable when you need work done. Quotes from aborists and tree-trimmers can vary, with many offering the “Atlantic Beach discount” which is really a surcharge because you live in Atlantic Beach and therefore should pay more. Um, no. Keep looking. You’ll find an honest resource, and when you do, nurture that relationship.

It’s going to cost you, being an environmental steward. You should consider that when looking at real estate in Atlantic Beach. Set aside funds for tree care and, if you can, put aside extra in case you ever have to remove a tree (God forbid) because you’ll be paying into the Atlantic Beach tree mitigation fund to the tune of about $1,800 per mature Sabal palm, roughly. Hopefully your realtor is advising you of these facts before you fantasize about putting in a pool or adding on to your residence. It might be your property, but you don’t exactly own the trees. You just get to take care of them and make damn sure nothing happens to them on your watch. Those are the kind of neighbors we want here in Atlantic Beach.

And for all this effort, you will reside together with the wise old Bard owls who will call in the night to their owl community sometimes creating a beautiful chorus of asking and answering that reverberates through the neighborhood overhead, as has been done for all time. We are just small people passing beneath them, who occasionally look up in wonder at these majestic creatures and sometimes their cute owlets, whose baby owl faces show such wide-eyed curiosity. The gorgeous hawks who perch on trees and mailboxes and playground equipment, staying still long enough to snap a good pic while you pass by, looking up,  as you enjoy an evening walk through the twisted oaks of Atlantic Beach.

If you’re in the park you might glimpse a small fox dashing by as you trudge along with your (leashed) dog.

The trees offer so much shade and therefore relief from the hot Florida sun that you just know why God made these southern Live oaks and how crucial they must have been for people who had to live here before air conditioning.

All the trees and native plants are so important to the overall ecosystem that each new homeowner should be made to complete an as-yet-to-be-designed course in Native Plantings for Your Area that offer ideas for creating a living, natural landscape that contributes to the community while providing an opportunity for individual creativity/preferences. (And know the fines for removing native trees, even if they do have 38 other mature native trees on the property.)

Change is Hard

Earlier this year the Beaches Town Center planted a trio of stately palms to occupy a prime piece of real estate: the grassy knoll where Atlantic and Neptune Beaches meet, the literal last stop before Atlantic Boulevard becomes the beach.


It’s such a focal point that I once mused here whether the site deserved a piece of public art, like the sculpture that seems (to me) buried at the 5-way stop. But for all these years that grassy mound only ever housed the Beaches Town Center Christmas tree.  Magnificent and festive, that fresh evergreen that sat majestically at the center of town, to the delight of most people paying homage to Christmas.

The other 11 months of the year, however, simply nothing was in that space. So I think we can all concur that these palms are lovely to look at year-round. 

But are there darker forces at play here? Several have argued that the landscape improvements seen throughout the Beaches Town Center was the good excuse needed to finally move the Christmas tree to a low key location. That the improvements project was merely the vehicle to do it. 

The three new palms were festooned with lights, and this new Christmas look debuted as the holiday season commenced. And while most were complimentary, some folks were, well, some were shocked by the loss/relocation of the Christmas tree, and took to social media to work through their complicated feelings on the matter. 


So, the town tree, which does appear decidedly diminished by its new locale, can be glimpsed outside the police and fire station at the 5-way stop. And tonight, those trio of palms are standing inexplicably unlit at the edge of Atlantic Boulevard,  feeling quite the outcasts.

Dutton Island Preserve…

…at low tide, in spring, as afternoon melds into evening. It’s 73 degrees with a cool, steady breeze. The marsh is pungent at low tide.

It’s Tuesday of Holy Week, and also Passover, and the moment feels sacred, and fleeting.

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Welcome to Hurricane Season 2014

It was late spring 2010 when Nick and I made this documentary short on hurricanes – history and preparedness – early in our career of working together, and long before the Nick and Not His Mom show was even a thought.

Come along on this short journey through the beaches’ experience with tropical storms and hurricanes, and begin to plan now for the storm season we’re just beginning here.

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A Beachlifer Goes Home

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I flew home to Michigan – the Detroit area – recently, and hung out in my childhood home with my old Dad, and my sister. It was a week off from my real life.   She took a week off, too, and traveled home from her California, and so for a sweet seven days we were three Shminas.  Roaming southeast Michigan in search of fall color and Nordstrom, and hanging out with our brothers and their families, in between.

Since moving to Florida in 2000,  finding my little beach neighborhood and nestling right on in, we’ve gone home to Michigan every single year except 2008.  The kids love it.  Going to Michigan every summer (I’ve come to realize) is as much their anticipated summer vacation as mine was for all those years our family trekked to Sleepy Hollow resort in South Haven.  I’d spend all year looking forward to that one week. I’d dream about how great it would be if I ever got to live on the Lake Michigan coast.  It was a terrific fantasy, one I’d marinate in while I waited to fall asleep at night, for years and years.

Imagine my joy when seemingly out of the blue fate led us to west Michigan!  To the wonderful town of Grand Haven!  We found an excellent family home in the wooded, hilly sand dunes above the beach there; it was a blissful two years.  I say I thought I’d died and gone to heaven, and it’s pretty much true.  Nearly every day I drove past the beach, saw my Lake Michigan through the seasons for two whole years.  I thought I was the luckiest.  A wonderful man, two beautiful and happy children, and me – all of us living on the shore of Lake Michigan (with deeded access! – a big deal, real estate-wise! – to the beach).

I still have pangs of longing, and wondering about how our life might have unfolded had we stayed and raised the family there.

But along came an opportunity, and it’s good to take a chance, to say yes to something you believe will be good for your career, your life, your family.  It was so hard to let go of Grand Haven, to leave our parents and families behind,to pack up our tiny children and leave the cold, gray winters (okay, that part wasn’t so hard) behind for a new land (and climate) in coastal Florida.

I’ll admit that I’d sometimes wish I could live in a warm, coastal place, but I only ever had those feelings momentarily, and it seemed so far fetched I didn’t really envision such a life.  I accepted my murky, cold, and slushy winters, while envious of my sister’s life in her California climate.

Then, suddenly, Florida!  Suddenly we lived here, and not only here, but in the charming town of Atlantic Beach, no less.  Within walking distance of the prettiest beach in the area.  Oh yes, my husband and I were both totally happy with our change of venue and climate.  We traded one perfect place for another.  And the next thing you know, it’s 13 years later.

So every year we spend a couple of weeks of summer up in Michigan, our family visiting grandparents and cousins.  It’s such a whirlwind of going here and going there, that it hardly feels we get to sink our toes into Michigan.  Sure, we’ve gotten to spend an afternoon on the beach or swim in Lake Michigan during some of our visits, but not always. And while the visits are great for family connectedness  I’ve felt increasingly frustrated with going, but not getting to feel it there.

Last year, then, I decided to go up in the fall.  I had four great days, just me with my Dad and the Michigan trees.IMG_9010

It was so nice that my sister decided to do the same thing this year,  and make a long weekend a whole week,  so that’s what we did.  A week together in Michigan in the fall, just us with our Dad – in our family home, each in her former bedroom.  It was kind of awesome.  A middle-aged mom gets to be a daughter again.

 

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January Tan

Oh, the weather we’ve been having these past ten days!  It’s beach weather, gardening weather, biking, jogging …. whatever your outdoor pleasure, it’s been fantastic here.   I see lots of cars occupying the nicely discreet (but accessible!) public parking Atlantic Beach offers its visitors; more than usual, for January. The rest of us are taking to the beach on foot, or bike, scooter or golf cart.  It’s been far too fabulous a January to play couch potato this year.

Florida winters are my favorite.  Having arrived in my little corner of ‘paradise meets dream-come-true’, I do relish cooler weather, the relief from the heat and humidity of May – September.  I like that we get our cold snaps, that we can actually wear our cute jackets and boots and pants, and that our hair can blow freely under a winter blue sky with low humidity.  This is the time of year when the phone calls come: “What are you doing over spring break this year?” from friends and relatives in the dark, gray, cold north.  There, they are surfing the Internet for flights to Florida while my son is surfing the waves on our neighborhood beach after school.

So while I love this weather for many reasons – one is that we haven’t had to run either the heat or the air conditioner (a nice break on the utility bill), I won’t mind if our 75 degrees becomes 55 degrees, either.  Chances are, it will.  Winter here is changeable that way.   As long as we don’t have to endure hard freeze nights, when we scurry to cover those tropical plants we insist on planting despite their not actually being native to this zone (they are so pretty! and most winters we don’t lose any of them anyway!), I find our beaches winter weather quite delicious.   I love biking in cooler temps, wearing a windbreaker but not arctic outerwear.  I love working in the yard and not sweating.  And I also thrill to the spike in temps from ‘normal’ (mid 60s) to warm (73 – 80 degrees!) when we beachlifers feel extra blessed and sun-kissed in January.  Instagram and Facebook are rife with photos that virtually shout, “We love where we live!” —and are implied invitations to our friends far and wide  (whether or not the photographer intends it!)

The other day, we saw our photo posted repeatedly on Facebook…. but it wasn’t just our photo.  It was dozens of people from our little beach town who happened to see the same breathtaking sunset sky, and had to snap, and share.   Yeah.  We love where we live.

 

 

 

 

 

And last Saturday, oh boy, did I ever love it.  I got started on my 2013 tan.  I put on sunscreen, grabbed my summer beach chair, an armful of beach reading, and passed a lovely few hours in the warm winter sun.  My black-polish-pedicure was about the only thing that said winter that day.

 

 

 

 

Girls: On the Precipice of High School

Shooting photos on the beach with teenagers in pretty dresses and funky shoes.

2/598.  A sneak peak, so to speak.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beachlife Reflections

(This is Gulf of Mexico water from Florida’s Emerald Coast.  Not ‘my’ water…but I’m going to find this water – hopefully this summer!

Photo courtesy of Visit Florida.com

It’s no secret that this beachlifer loves her water – be it salty or fresh.  Here on the northeast Florida coast, the ocean is rougher (at times, though the surfers would argue for better waves) for girls like me, who like swimming in their water rather than balancing on top of it.

But surfers are hot – boys and  girls.  They’re strong, and to me: brave.

My beachlife is warm sand, a comfy chair, cold drinks, some great reads (brainless mags and a meaningful book), a bathing suit I can be comfortable in (that elusive combo of looking good – I still try – but serving me well in all the … proper zones), and good water.  I love to swim.

Swimming doesn’t have to be going at it hard.  But I like to be able to dive under, swim around and feel the euphoria that underwater immersion gives me; and emerge, twisting my long hair so squeeze as much water out so it will dry with those salty waves that only ocean water can give it.

Then I stretch back out in the chair and let the sun warm my skin while my mind slips back into the words on the page and I’m oblivious to the world around me.

My kids said, “You never play with us.  You only read.”

That hurt because it’s true.  I wasn’t the sand-castle making mom.  But I did go into the water with them, and teach them to dive into the waves.  I’d bring them to the beach practically every single day when they were small; hauling all their toys, boogie boards, drinks, snacks, towels, and even a spray bottle of vinegar in case anyone had a jellyfish sting.

So while I did not play with them, I led them to the best playground I could find.  A place I thought we all  could be happy.  A place we could all get to on foot, within five minutes of home.

Paradise, I thought.

 

Turns out, maybe it was just paradise for me.  Maybe I was living my own dream.  Okay, not maybe. I was.  I did.  I still will.

We live in this awesome community, a beach town that’s a small town with all the advantages of a larger city since Jacksonville, Florida borders us to the west.  My three kids do love it here:  they enjoy riding their bikes to our town’s small, Wednesday farmer’s market, they love riding into our town and spend their pocket money in some of their favorite shops.  See, it’s a beautiful, pedestrian community with independent storefronts and places where teens and tweens can afford to bring home something trendy or cute.

Two of my three kids are not beach lovers.  They state they don’t like the beach and while I know – we all get to love what we love – it’s really hard to believe how anyone could say and believe that!  They won’t go to the beach with me anymore.

Well, they’re growing up and developing interests of their own. My middle girl loves to bike to that farmers market – she’s the foodie around here.  And if she moves away (sob) when she grows up, I’m guessing she’ll realize that the lifestyle of a beach town is precious and rare, and she’ll treasure the other aspects of it that may not include the coast itself.  Because yes, while the beach is its focal point, there are so many cool, indie things going on here that there really is something for everyone.

My son: he’s our surfer.  I took him to surf camp at age five and again age nine but it wasn’t until he was 15 – last summer, really – that he caught the surfing bug.  When I watch him run off down the street, one of his boards under his arm, to catch up with his pals who are running toward good surf I know that he, of all my kids, gets it.  He gets why it was so important to me that we find a house within walking distance to the beach.

And he loves it.